Dolly Sods Hiking
Dolly Sods is a wilderness with rugged boulders, arid, open plains, and spruce trees. It is more barren (without as many trees and hills) than the other areas of the Monongahela Forest. The wilderness has 10,215 acres on top of the Allegheny Plateau, and the elevation is between 2500 and 4700 feet.
History
In the 1800’s logging companies cut its giant 4 foot diameter spruce trees. Fires destroyed the top soil and farmers used the land for grazing their cattle. This grazing land was called “sods.” One family that cleared the land was the Dahle family. In time, this area became known as “Dolly Sods.”
Information
Many visitors like to pick berries (blueberries, huckleberries, teaberries and cranberries). So do the bears.
Trails are heavily used on weekends in the summer. There are 25 miles of hiking trails, marked only by cairns (piles of rocks) and blazes (ax cut on trees), instead of colored trail marker discs. Unlike other areas in the Monongahela Forest, you need to stay on the designated trails, and not create new trails.
Be prepared and be aware of many challenges on the hiking trails (not the bird watching or blueberry picking spots)! Many trails follow old logging roads and require you to ford streams, especially in high water times. Be sure to take your map and compass, as well as clothes for sudden changes in weather. Red Creek is known to have flash floods. Storms, dense fog, strong Western winds, snow and low temperatures are all possible. Also, be alert for poisonous rattle snakes, especially on TR554 Rocky Point Trail by Breathed Mountain. Lastly, beware of hunters and wear bright colored clothing.
Because this was a training ground for our soldiers in WWII, be on the lookout for unexploded mortar shells, and if you find any, be sure to report them during the day Monday-Friday to the Cheat-Potomac Forest District at 304-257-4488, or on evenings and weekends to the Monongahela National Forest at 888-283-0303.
Dolly Sods is rated in the top ten for back backing trails in the country by Trails.com. Campfires are not allowed within 300 feet of FR19 and FS75, except at Red Creek Campground, which is the only campground in the area, and has 12 campsites, with a water well.
Mountain biking is not allowed on the wilderness trails.
FR75 has gates in the North and South and they are locked in the winter from New Year’s Day to around April (when the snow has melted enough).
Information Sources
- Monongahela National Forest Hiking Guide
- “Dolly Sods Wilderness” literature and “Dolly Sods Area Map” has a map that is very easy to see the trails (except TR517).
Topo Quadrangle Maps:
- Hopeville
- Blackbird Knob
- “Canaan Valley Adventure Map” literature has great information, including wildlife viewing, exceptional views, difficulty level, cumulative elevation, and information stations. It shows Dolly Sods, Canaan, and Blackwater Falls areas.
- Local hikers.
- For more information, see www.fs.fed.us/r9/mnf or call 304-257-4488.
Directions from the North Fork Mountain Inn to Dolly Sods
From the Inn, go North on Smoke Hole Road to the bridge in Cabins, and turn left on Hwy 28-55. Go West on Hwy 28-55, just South of Best Gas Station and Smoke Hole Caverns. There is a sign for Hwy 28-7 to Dolly Sods. Turn right and go North about a mile to FR19. Turn left and go West on FR19, which has some switchbacks as it goes over the mountain range. It takes you to FR75 and the Dolly Sods Picnic Area. For many of these trailheads below, you will need to turn right and go North on FR75.
North Fork Mountain Inn Suggested Trails:
Best trail for all the unique characteristics of Dolly Sods is TR511 Blackbird Knob Trail – It is 2.2 miles each way, and there are two stream crossings. Park at Red Creek Campground on FR75.
TR569 Northland Loop Trail- It is a half mile interpretive nature walk, near the Red Creek Campground on FR75.
TR522 Bear Rocks – This is a great place to pick huckleberries and blueberries in the spring months. It is located along FR75 in the NW corner of Dolly Sods. It also has exceptional views.
Bird Banding Station - This is a great place to do bird watching, which is popular especially in Aug & Sept. It is located on FR75 at the East end of TR511, by the Dolly Sods Campground.
TR517 South Prong Trail - This is a popular trail that has boardwalks over the swampy areas. It starts South off FR19, near the Dolly Sods Picnic Area (near junction of FR19 & FR75). Just North of the picnic area has exceptional views.